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How to Professionally Make-up your Fashion Photoshoot Models

Written by Midge Holding – Senior Makeup Artist and owner of Minifies Ltd

What to consider prior to the Fashion Makeup application:
• What is the model wearing for the shoot?

• The age of the model? (Mature models generally require a softer look, avoiding harsh lip/eye colours and too much powder)

• Should the makeup be a part of the themed garment or compliment the colours etc.? (e.g. eye shadow or lip colour to match the garment)

• What effect required? (Natural, high fashion, smoky eyes, shimmery etc)

• How long will the makeup application and hair design take? (Inform the rest of the crew how long you will be)

• Are all the makeup/hair materials readily available for use? (Good preparation and planning are vital)

• Where will the makeup application take place, is there seating, good lighting, water, shelter from the elements? (Ensure the model has somewhere to sit in a quiet area and with good even lighting)

• Has the makeup artist got all the relevant information? (Ask lots of questions if unsure of anything)

Procedure:
• Have everything ready before the arrival of the model.

• Makeup brushes, sponges, puffs, makeup, hair combs/brushes and makeup gown must be spotlessly clean and ready for use.

• Ensure the model has a seat, indoors and somewhere quiet.

• Look at the set or studio and if possible ask about the lighting to be used. (Makeup application for a studio shoot is very different from an outside shoot. e.g. Bright studio lights pick up more shine on the face than outside.)

• Greet the model and check what she will be wearing, if there are several garments, a compromise will be necessary with quick lipstick, blusher, hair alterations during costume changes.

• Check for any known allergies.

• Wash hands and put a protective gown around the model. In some instances you may have to make up the model already dressed in the garment.

• If doing hair and makeup, start with the hair if using heated rollers. Ask model to remove any clothing that has to come off over her head.

• Ensure the skin is clean and makeup free.

• Apply a moisturiser or makeup primer. Concealers, correctors, foundation applied first. The type of foundation used determines what goes under the foundation. Some foundations have moisturisers included so a separate one may not be required. When using powder mineral foundation it is essential to have an oil free skin, otherwise the foundation could look patchy. It is essential to avoid titanium dioxide (sunscreen) products when working with flash photography. It will reflect the light and the face will appear as white or very pale.

• A sponge or a suitable brush should be used to apply the foundation(not the fingers)

• Cream blusher is applied if appropriate.

• Powder the skin well with a high quality translucent powder which won't change the colour of the foundation.

• Powder blusher is applied.

• Eye makeup is applied according to the requirements

• Lips are the last area to be made up, which may include a pencil, lipstick and a gloss.

• Check the completed makeup via a mirror, to ensure it is even.

• Complete the hair styling.

• Stand by throughout the photo shoot with powder, blusher, lipstick, hairspray, comb, and mirror. Under bright lights extra powder may be required.

• Avoid standing in the models eye-line during the shoot, preferably stand behind the camera. If possible have a look through the camera as a final makeup check.

• At the end of the shoot, offer to remove the makeup for the model.

Compiled by Midge Holding
Managing Director of Minifies, as from 1st May 2009
Senior Makeup Artist (BBC London), Beauty Therapist (London) and Post graduate in Education. (Oxford. UK)

Further information on makeup lessons and group tuition available from Midge.
Contact: midge@minifies.co.nz or 03 377 1692
www.minifies.co.nz

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